In lockdown I found myself with a lot time on my hands and a lot of things I hadn’t baked for ages. So I thought I’d try my hand at scones. I used a really basic recipe the first time round, but what was great thing about it, the versatility of it. You could add anything to it at that point, sweet or savoury, and make scones really quite quickly. I’d made scones as a kid, countless times, dried fruit were always popular, as was cheese, and as I’ve gotten old, I much prefer a cheese scone with some palma ham or salami, or just more cheese (and obviously the scones needed to be buttered). I’ve found with cheese scones that a good dollop of mustard really brings the cheese to life, so you can add wet mustard, any kind you like, or little English mustard powder, if you know your quantities. I’ve also found that with cheese straws, and cheese scones, a hint of cayenne pepper and smoked paprika does absolute wonders.

Where sweet scones are concerned, I’m Devon, cream and then jam. Clotted cream, not fresh cream, that is a super weird idea and I don’t know who thought that was a good one. And if I’m being super fussy, I’ll only have raspberry jelly, I don’t want seeds in my teeth.